![]() ![]() Sometimes cracks will form on the overflow tank if it is too old and worn out. If the radiator coolant overflow tank is damaged or cracked, then you can expect coolant fluid to leak out of it. Here are four of the most common signs of a bad radiator overflow tank. Top 4 Bad Coolant Expansion Tank Symptoms This is kind of like a vacuum effect where the pressure decrease allows the excess coolant in the overflow tank to flow back out of it, so it can return to the radiator. The coolant will then contract instead of expand resulting in the volume of the coolant decreasing. Once the driver parks the vehicle and turns off the engine, the heat dissipates which causes the coolant to not be as hot anymore. The excess fluid flows into the overflow tube and goes into the overflow tank. So, the radiator coolant overflow tank functions to serve this exact purpose. As the pressure causes the coolant to get higher than the radiator pressure cap, the excess coolant needs to be captured somewhere in order to prevent leakage. Radiator Overflow Tank Replacement CostĪs coolant gets hot due to it absorbing heat from the engine, the liquid expands and creates additional pressure in the radiator.Top 4 Bad Coolant Expansion Tank Symptoms. ![]() The other side of the coin as far as reasons for locating the xpn tank at the circ inlet have to do with the feed water valve and maintaining steady pressure in front of that particular device so as to avoid over filled conditions. Locating an expansion tank and air scoop at the inlet of the main circ is just good practice because that is the lowest pressure point in the system and so being, also the place where entrained air is most easily removed. This would be especially true if the gasser was fairly large water volume or if a person had pressurized storage. In a circumstance where the gasser was located remotely from the rest of the system there would be nothing wrong with adding an expansion tank there either by itself or with an air scoop. It hasn't come up yet, but it seemed like an interesting problem. I wondered what would happen if the second tank was added some place other than where the first one was. It wouldn't seem unreasonable to me that they might want to leave the existing (paid for) ET in place, and just add another ET sized to fit the added boiler and storage - which given how big the tanks are might not be convenient to plug in next to the existing tank. I was sort of thinking of the situation where someone was adding a closed gassifier and storage to an existing system. I'm combing through Siegenthaler's book but I haven't found the answer yet. Is it enough to mount it high in a closet on the second floor only a couple or three feet above the same floor that contains those tubes that are the system high point? That would be a little less than 2psi extra. If only a couple psi, does the open expansion tank need to be all the way up into the attic?. ![]() How much more does that pressure have to be in the real world? As long as system pressure is more than that the circulator can 'circulate' and not have to 'pump' that water upstairs. above the low point at the boiler circulator in the basement, you would have a static head of a little less that 9psi. If your highest system water was upstairs in the radiant floor tubes and say those tubes are 20ft. In other words the 'weight' of the water column from the circulator at the boiler to the very highest point in the system. I understand that the system pressure has to be greater than the static head of the system. When open expansion tanks (Euro style, vented out on the roof) are discussed on this forum they are often described as "in the attic". ![]()
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